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I DIDN'T GET A SHIPPING BILL WITH MY ORDER. WHY NOT?
HOW DO I BUY A LARGER PIECE?
CAN I REALLY JUST BUY A 3-IN. PIECE OF WOOL?
CAN I PAY BY CREDIT CARD EVEN IF I DON'T HAVE A PAYPAL ACCOUNT?
HOW ACCURATE ARE THE IMAGES ON MY SCREEN?
HOW ARE YOUR COLORS ORGANIZED? I SEE PRIMITIVE COLORS IN THE MODERN COLOR FAMILY!
WITH ALL THESE COLORS, AREN'T SOME EXACTLY THE SAME?
CAN I RETURN AN ITEM?
DO YOU COMBINE SHIPPING?
CAN I CALL YOU WITH MY ORDER?
CAN I REQUEST A CUSTOM COLOR?
DO YOU SHIP INTERNATIONALLY?
HOW HEAVY IS THIS WOOL? WHAT IS THE WEAVE?


I DIDN'T GET A SHIPPING BILL WITH MY ORDER. WHY NOT?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I can't really call myself 'green' but I do like to conserve and do things that make sense along the way in life. So at the store, if I can just carry a purchases out in my hand, I pass on the bag, or I use cloth bags. I print very little on my printer, using the monitor whenever possible -- you get the idea. I decided at the beginning not to send a shipping bill with wool shipments, to conserve on paper. I know that you have the information in your original email, and can refer to that if you need to. However, if you do need an invoice for business purposes, and printing a copy of the Paypal invoice will not do, let me know and I will send something along.

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HOW DO I BUY A LARGER PIECE?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Simple. The basic increment that I use is the 3" X 18" strip, rather than 1/8 yard or 1/4 yard etc. I realize this is a little different than what most of us are used to. I tried to establish a minimum size that would fall in the $1 range, and this size turned out to be about right. So if you want a bigger piece, just order more than one of a color. The 18" measurement will always stay the same and the 3" measurement will multiply. So if you order two pieces of a color, you will get a 6" X 18" piece, three pieces will be a 9" X 18 piece, etc. As a rule of thumb: 4 strips = a little less than a fat eighth, 9 strips = a fat quarter, 18 strips = 1/2 yard, 27 strips = 3/4 yard, 36 strips = 1 yard. Isn't that a great idea? This way you can buy just what you need without a lot of waste. Sure, we all love to build our stash, but we don't always want to by 1/4 yard to get that little bit that we need. This is what I always wanted when shopping for wool, so it was only natural to build my business around this concept. Needless to say, it's quite popular!

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CAN I REALLY JUST BUY A 3-IN. PIECE OF WOOL?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes you can, and you can buy only that piece and nothing else! Just realize that the shipping for one piece of wool will be over $1.00 itself, so economically, it makes sense to buy a few more. You can buy five pieces and pay nearly the same shipping, bringing the shipping cost per piece way down. Once you are buying 12 pieces and more, your shipping per pieces gets down around 10 cents per piece. So keep this in mind. And it will help me, of course, if you order in larger quantities, but I will never expect this. Buy just what you need or want, and no more.

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CAN I PAY BY CREDIT CARD EVEN IF I DON'T HAVE A PAYPAL ACCOUNT?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes! And it's easy. Once you are done shopping, proceed to check out, fill in your shipping information, then click 'Next'. On the next screen, select 'Paypal' as your payment method -- click 'Submit Order' and 'Continue with Paypal' on the next screen. This will take you to Paypal. If you click on the link that says, " Don't have a Paypal account?" it will take you to a screen that allows you to pay with credit card, without having to log in to a Paypal account. Just fill in the steps there and you're all set!

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HOW ACCURATE ARE THE IMAGES ON MY SCREEN?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have tried, and will continue to endeavor, to render the colors of the wool correctly on my monitor. I work in Photoshop to alter the color cast and color saturation of each piece until it matches the wool actually in front of me on my desk, for tone, value and brightness. At present, this is an ongoing task, as I dye large pieces of wool for orders, rather than working from the samples I started up with. So bear with me through this year (2011) as I complete the task of making all colors as accurate as they can be. If ever a color doesn't look right, just let me know -- I will be happy to exchange until you get the color you need! The colors you get may also differ from dye lot to dye lot, although this difference is often negligible. In the end, I want you to be happy with your wool, so I will do whatever I can to make sure that the color you wanted is the color you end up with in your hand. Lastly, I strongly recommend that you use a desktop monitor for shopping. Laptop monitors, while excellent quality overall these days, may not render colors properly. When I look at colors on the monitor of my Mac laptop, or any of our PC laptops, they simply don't render the colors as I see them in person. I have checked on a couple of very new laptops, and I can see that the quality of color rendering has improved in the last year or so, but overall, I can only suggest that you use a desktop computer.

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HOW ARE YOUR COLORS ORGANIZED? I SEE PRIMITIVE COLORS IN THE MODERN COLOR FAMILY!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Because I have so many colors, I have had to find a logical way to organize them. My formulas are organized mathematically, and I place similar formulas (and the resulting visually similar colors) together into 'families', and there are four families, Primitive, Country, Modern and Vibrant, and these families are all organized according to how BRIGHT they are. "Vibrant" colors are ALL combinations of only TWO primaries, and so they are very, very bright. "Modern" colors are pretty bright, with about 5 - 10% of the third primary thrown in to soften the color. "Country" colors are a step closer toward the center of the color wheel, and are very soft without being actually dull, with 10-15% of the third primary added. "Primitive" colors are the dullest colors, and all of them are approaching grey or brown in the color wheel, with up to 25% of the third primary added. Most, although not all, of the usual primitive colors will be found in this family. I don't think I have seen anyone else organize color this way, but I believe it's a great help in color selection. I suggest that you begin by deciding how BRIGHT you want your colors to be, and then shop in the color family that offers those types of colors. This will narrow down your search by at least half, and maybe 3/4. If you're shopping for a red, for instance, and want a very bright red, go to the Vibrant color family. Then select any red, and look at its listing. You will see a graphic in each vibrant red listing that shows all of the vibrant reds together, and this is a great help for getting your bearings on the reds as they are positioned in the color wheel. (This graphic will not render all of the individual colors accurately -- it's just there to help you see the big picture.) So you'll see everything in reds from nearly purple, to nearly orange. This gives you an idea of which shade of red you might want -- a cool red, or hot, or neutral. Then all that is left is to choose the value(s) you want. Please use the individual color graphics to make your final choice. That said, you may still have a hard time nailing down your color. For instance, you may see colors in the "Primitive" family that you would not consider primitive, by traditional color organizing methods. Since I work in "color swatches" (offering 6-8 values of each basic color), to further help me organize the colors, you may see what you would regard as a "pastel" in the primitives. Just recognize that the "pastels" at the 1, 2 and 3 values in those primitive groups are still a dull color, just lighter. If you see a green that seems more like a brown to you, it may be one of a few 'borderline' colors that were very difficult for me to categorize. In the end, those tough customers were placed where they best belonged, based on similarity of formula and overall similarity to the rest of the color family in which they were placed. "Slate Roof" and "Antique British" are two such "borderline" colors. If you don't see the incredibly brownish green you are looking for, then check the browns -- it may be there as an incredibly greenish brown! Often clients are put off by the word 'Primitive' and I have thought of changing it, except that it generally describes what I think of as primitive -- colors that are dull and closer to the center of the color wheel. However, there are many soft, pretty colors to be found there, especially in the lighter values, and in the blues, greens and purples. Even if you don't think of yourself as a 'prim lover', you may want to check out the primitive family for some lovely colors. And if you are into primitive colors, DEFINITELY check out the yellows, reds and oranges in the country and modern color families. The darker values of many of them are what would traditionally be considered primitive. So you never know where you might unearth an interesting shade -- feel free to peruse all the categories, that is, if you have a day or two to spare!

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WITH ALL THESE COLORS, AREN'T SOME EXACTLY THE SAME?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In general, no. If there were duplicate colors produced during my trials, I only used one. Sometimes it will be hard to see the difference in shade or value on your monitor, but believe me when I say that I have gone out of my way to avoid offering duplicate colors and values. In most cases there are definite differences, and at least a discernible difference between all colors. The possible exceptions to this are the very light yellows and perhaps a few lighter yellow greens and yellow oranges. I left them in because the darker values in those 7-value color swatches were different, and it is less confusing for me to just deal in complete color swatches, rather than suggesting that you mix colors from two or more color groups to create a swatch. And there are certainly more color formulas to be developed that fall in between my formulas, but at some point I had to stop producing colors! I stopped when I felt I had a good representation of all the possible colors in the color wheel without duplicating and without leaving any large gaps in between colors.

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CAN I RETURN AN ITEM?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes you can, and you can exchange also. If it is only one piece to return, you may just want to keep it. Then let me know about the problem, and I will send another, hopefully closer color for you, at my expense. If the mistake is mine, you may keep what I have sent, and I will send the right item, at my expense. Ultimately, I will work out returns on a case-by-case basis. Just know that in the end I want you to be happy and I will absorb whatever time and/or expense is needed to get there!

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DO YOU COMBINE SHIPPING?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Shipping here is weight-based, so there is no need to combine shipping. You will pay close to actual shipping charges, no matter how much you order. If, for some reason, the shipping calculates high, I will refund some of your money. I don't like being gouged on shipping, and I won't do that to my customers, either!

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CAN I CALL YOU WITH MY ORDER?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I always prefer online shopping vs. phone call or mail orders, and payment by Paypal if possible -- it automates everything on my end and gets your wool to you much more quickly. I have a tendency to lose addresses written on the backs of envelopes on my desk! That said, I realize that many of you are not computer buffs or are leery of shopping online, so I am happy to accommodate you if that is the case!

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CAN I REQUEST A CUSTOM COLOR?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With so many colors, generally I can find a color in the inventory that will be very, very close to a color you need to match, and you can certainly send me a swatch or, as some do, a skein of embroidery floss in the color(s) you need, and I will match it with a color in the inventory, or I will custom dye if need be, which may cost a little extra. If you need a shade lighter or darker of a color than what is offered, please let me know and I will do my best to accommodate your request.

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DO YOU SHIP INTERNATIONALLY?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yes! See the "Terms and Conditions" page for more info.

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HOW HEAVY IS THIS WOOL? WHAT IS THE WEAVE?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The wool I use for the bulk of the overdyeing that I do is an 11 oz. 2/1 warp-faced unfinished twill. This means that each yard weighs about 11 oz. -- a medium weight weave, well-suited for rug hooking and applique. The looser twill weave leaves room for a moderate amount of fulling during the dyeing process. Fulling, for those who may be new to the wool arts, is the process by which a WOVEN wool fabric fluffs and shrinks, greatly reducing the amount of raveling along the threads. Felting is the process of causing shrinkage and fluffing of random fleece fibers to produce a NON-WOVEN product, like the felt squares you buy in the craft store. While the term 'felting' is often used to refer to 'fulling', fulling is the proper term to use when referring to woven wool fabrics that have been 'pre-shrunk' and fluffed to retard raveling. This naturally occurs during the dyeing process and makes the wool that you buy at Ram in the Thicket ready to work with.

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Last Updated: 22 Sep 2016 09:20:03 PDT home  |  about  |  terms  |  contact
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